7.10.2008

Vitamin A in Skin Care

What is vitamin A and when and who should use it ? In my opinion Vitamin A should be a integral component in any modern day active skin care program.

Vitamin A was first used to treat acne (1985) as it increases exfoliation of skin cells and increases cell turnover. It was found to have the additional benefits of improving the skin's elasticity tone and texture as well as smoothing the skin's surface and improving fine lines and wrinkles. Tretinoin in fact is the only chemical to date to receive FDA approval for anti-aging and anti-sun damage properties.

The first and most well known of the vitamin A derivative creams was tretinoin. Tretinoin also known as All-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA) is a natural occurring derivative of vitamin A (retinol). Retinoids such as tretinoin are important regulators of cell reproduction, proliferation and differentiation and are now used to treat acne as well as photodamaged skin. Tretinoin is found in Retin A, Tazorac, Renova and Avita. It is also in many new versions combined with microsphere technology for greater penetration (Retin A micro). We recommend Obagi Tretinoin. It has also been combined with other agents either antibiotics (Ziana) or adapelene (Differin) which makes the skin less photosensitive.

It is also used effectively in programs in conjunction with hydroquinone for lightening the skin (Obagi Nu Derm). Most of these are available by prescription. While there is no debate whether tretinoin improves the characteristics of aging skin over time, its use is often associated with unwelcome side effects such as irritation, peeling, redness and sun sensitivity.

There are different metabolites of vitamin A now available such as retinol, retinyl palmitate in over the counter preparations. Retinol is considered to be 20 times less potent than retinoic acid and thus need to be present in higher quantities than tretinoin in order to be effective. Once this is achieved, similar results can be obtained without the irritating side effects. The interesting thing is that ALL of these must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin to be effective. Which brings us to my one of my recommendations in this category: Avene (Paris) has introduced Retrinal HAF. This product contains Retinaldehyde, which is the immediate precursor to Retinoic Acid. (The active ingredient in Retin A, Tazorac, and Tretinoin). Retinoic Acid is known to reduce the appearance of visible deep lines and wrinkles as staed above as well as actually preventing collagen loss. It is also known to benefit the CD44 production, which is the receptor for Hyaluronic Acid. Hyaluronic Acid binds with water thereby plumping, or hydrating the area it is in. It is the primary ingredient in dermal fillers such as Restylane, Juvederm and Perlane, and it hydrates skin beautifully when used as a topical agent. Fragmented Hyaluronic Acid (HAF) when sized to its optimum length has an enhanced firming effect. When used together, Retinaldehyde and HAF have a synergistic action and further demonstrate reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

What can you really expect from this product? - It will diminish the visible depth of fine lines and deeper wrinkles - It will reduce roughness and blotchiness - It will even out skin tone - It will increase hydration of the skin increasing skin firmness and hydration. For those with a more oily or acne prone complexion consider alternating with Diacneal which is Retinaldehyde mixed with a glycolic acid.


Post-Peel Care: How to manage your skin after a peel or laser treatment.


There are many amazing peels and new lasers that have allowed us to undo much of the damage we have done to our skin. Most of these should be done by a highly qualified and knowledgeable medical doctor. These new procedures often require little down time and the patient can return to work soon after. Still, after the procedure patients want to know what is the best post-procedural product to use to optimize the procedure's outcome. This may involve the immediate period but long after the procedure as well. In addition I am often asked what is the best foundation or cover up to use in the immediate post procedure time period. This section will address all of these questions.


First we have to start with the duration of the skin cycle. The skin regenerates new cells every 28 days. This means when you have a procedure done you will not see the true results for ABOUT A MONTH. The truth is the final result takes even longer than that, up to 6 months.

In the immediate post treatment phase let your physician guide you. Many will use something similar to Aquaphor which is a petroleum based product that allow your skin to have a protective barrier during this time. As soon as you have your new skin however consider any of the following products:
- Regenerating Gel by MesoEstetic: This is an intensive repair cream which restores and revitalizes and calms skin. Active ingredients include Beta-Glucan which offers skin regeneration properties and DMAE which improves skin elasticity. Both of these are powerful antioxidant agents. This is formulated with the antioxidants Idebenone (the strongest antioxidant), Alpha Lipoic Acid and Coenzyme Q10 as well as solar filters to protect new skin from solar damage. $45.99—ounces---picture
- Biomedic Hydra-Recovery by La Roche-Posay: This product is a post peel recovery moisturizer. It reinforces the barrier function as it prevents transdermal water loss. Immediate and long lasting post procedural results are enhanced. This product is soothing and non irritating to new skin. This product contains Thermal Spring Water Dermobiotic which is a new ingredient developed by La Roche-Posay and is a cellular biotechnical fortifying agent adapted to the needs of post procedural skin. It significantly increases the skin's natural defenses by increasing the protective proteins produced by the skin. It has proven anti-free radical properties and favors the reconstruction of the cutaneous barrier 40ml 1.35 fl oz tube picture $40.00
- Biomedic C Recovery by La Roche-Posay: This product is an excellent post procedural anti wrinkle cream. This also contains Thermal Spring Water Dermobiotic. It soothes the skin as it acts as a protective barrier and protects collagen fibers. Pure Vitamin C (5%) is combined with Xanthire to stimulate synthesis of collagen while it protects newly formed fibers and soothe sold ones. Because this product is enriched with Thermal Dermobiotic (1%)it also strengthens and reinforces the natural defenses of the skin. 40ml 1.35 fl. Oz tube $57
- Skin Medica Dermal Repair/Anti aging cream: Containing Vitamin C and E in the highest concentration, this cream offers free radical defense. It also contains Hyaluronic acid and essential fatty acids, all in a luxurious creamy base. This product is for skin once it is re-epithelialized but still within the first 28 days. Need price and ounces

So what else can you use post procedure? As soon as the epidermis is intact again we suggest you stay with the one of two types of makeup base. We suggest that after a peel you use either mineral powder base makeup, which is good for your skin and contains a sun block (Glo Minerals) or use Lycogel MD. Lycogel contains a live cell extract that actually decreases the period of redness after a procedure while it promotes healing of your skin.

Lycogel is a cover up makeup that is a color corrective makeup and is formulated for all skin types. Lycogel was developed by Dermacia, Inc company that was established in 2000. We have used it in our office since its inception. Through the use of biotechnology and nanotechnology they were able to produce a truly great line of products. Lycogel Complex™ offers the tissue respiratory factors. It does this by containing live yeast cell derivatives. It is based in a breathable triple-silica base. Overall this cover up or camouflage product promotes moisture and oxygen back into the damaged or peeled areas. The oxygen and moisture of course assist with recovery of the skin, while it allows you to return to work wearing a base foundation. Lycogel Camouflage was shown to be the only foundation to increase the delivery of essential oxygen to the wearer's skin, up to three times more than wearing nothing at all. Clinical studies showed that patients who had chemical peels had a two day advance recovery compared to the patients who did not use it at all. It can be used immediately after a procedure. Lycogel also contains UVA and UVB sun protection with titanium dioxide and moisturizers, and also contains Vitamin A, E and C. This keeps the skin protected and hydrated. It will stay on the skin even with heavy exercise and swimming. It is also hypoallergenic and can be used with most skin types. Lycogel is a gel based product that leaves the skin feeling clean and pure. It can be worn even if nor procedure is done and a person just wants full correction.

GloMinerals: Glominerals has developed an exclusive formulation by selecting the best quality pharmaceutical-grade ingredients including antioxidants, vitamins C, A, K, E and green tea extracts to prevent free-radical damage and improve the health and condition of the skin. This minerals-based makeup provides excellent coverage for all skin conditions, antioxidant benefits along with UV protection. We find that it has the best combination of ingredients for sensitive post procedural skin.


Sunscreens: the first line of defense against aging

This decade has brought a new face to sunscreens and sunblocks with many new options and hundreds of choices. Sunscreens and sunblocks are probably the most effective product that you can use on your skin that will effectively retard premature aging as well as protect you from skin cancer.

The number one cause of aging has been shown to be the damaging UV radiation that comes from the sun. UV radiation causes photoaging and results in loss of elasticity of the skin due to free radical damage. UV radiation comes in different wavelengths. None of these are visible to the human eye. While visible light is 400 to 760 NM, UVA is below at 260 and 320 to 400 NM. UVB is from 290 to 320 NM.Until recently many of the sunscreens by selectively targeting only the UVB rays. This still allows other rays such as UVA to reach the skin. UVA rays are also harmful and responsible for skin aging and skin cancer. Therefore it is important to have a sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.

There is a new proposed regulation before the FDA that identifies the rating system for UVA sunscreens products on a scale of one to four stars. One star would represent the low UVA protection, two stars would represent represent medium protection, three stars higher and finally four stars the very highest UVA protection in over the counter protection. If a sunscreen does not at least carry a one star protection from UVA the FDA proposes the product must carry “no UVA protection” on the front label near the SPF value.

Presently we only have SPF (Sun Protection Factor) which is based on UVB rays. So what is the difference between sunscreens and sunblocks? They are often used interchangeably but they are different.

A sunscreen is a product that actually inactivated the UV light and makes it less damaging to the tissue. Sunblocks on the other hand act as a physical blocker or shield and do not let the UV rays reach the target tissue at all. There is another division in sunscreens. There are organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical) sunscreens.

Organic does not mean it is a sunscreen that is naturally produced, rather it simply means it is composed of carbon and hydrogen. Organic sunscreens are absorbed into the skin to some extent. Most organic sunscreens block only UVB rays. The exception is Avobenzone (Parsol) which blocks UVA. They work by absorbing the radiation (light energy) and then release it in the form of heat energy (infrared). Organics get rid of UV by creating free radicals. Ant oxidants added to the sunscreen preparation or used separately can help stop free radical damage.

Inorganic sunscreens (physical blocks) contain inert microscopic solid and particulate minerals. The most common are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Zinc oxide is considered very safe and blocks more UVB than any other single ingredient. Titanium Dioxide blocks some UVA and most UVB. Both ingredients lie on top of the skin and are not absorbed. They work by reflecting and refracting the UVA and UVB rays. They do not create the opportunity for free radical scavengers because they are not absorbed into the body. So there is your update on sunscreens.

UVB Sunscreens are from 260 to 320NM. They may include PABA, Ocinoxate, Homosalate, Cinoxate, Aminobenzoic Acid, Trolamine Salicylate, Ensulizole and Octisalate.

UVA Sunscreens are from 260NM to 400 NM. They contain any of the following ingredients: Oxybenzone (UVA and UVB) Avobenzone or Parasol, Benzophenone, Meradimate, Sulisobensone, Dioxybenzone, or Methyl Anthtanitate and the newest Mexoryl. (Anthelios)

Physical Blockers are from 290 up to 1800NM. These contain Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide and Zinc Oxide. (Obagi Nu Derm Sun Block).

Finally there are the new and upcoming powdered sunscreens that offer better absorption with nanotechnology. The active ingredients used to formulate powder sunscreens are zinc and titanium dioxide. Nanotechnology offers a new medium for applying sunscreens. It is being introduced to minimize the drawbacks currently associated with traditional sunscreens. This medium is powder. Powder properly formulated is inert and is not absorbed into the skin. it does not produce free radical damage. Carriers like iron oxide, oat, rice mica, silicone and talc can be use as inactive ingredients. These micronized minerals using nanotechnology have actally been around since the 1970's but were underused, mess,y and often only in colored products. The new generation of powder sunscreens uses a powder so fine that each particle is smaller than awavelength of visible light. When spread on the skin they will reflect and refract almost all dangerous UV rays. They will do this from the surface of the skin so this will prevent free radical damage. Colorescience offers a full spectrum SPF 30 powder sunscreen called Forgettable.


Sunscreens of today may contain other factors that compliment the SPF factor. Studies have provided us with strong evidence that certain vitamins can protect the body cells and tissues from damage caused by enviromental stress (UV radiation and chemical pollutants). Others can provide the proper environment for the correction of damage inflicted on skin hair and nails as result of aging and photoaging. Of particular interest in cosmetics are vitamins A, E, C, pro-vitamin B5 (anthenol) and their derivatives.

While typical sunscreens offer no protection against free radical damage, the addition of antioxidants could significantly reduce the generation of free radicals. In a recent study, vitamin C was by far the best quencher. There are natural enzymes in your skin that form a reservoir of vitamin C. The best results were achieved after multiple applications of the antioxidants where a significant amount of vitamin C accumulated in the skin. Free radicals that are generated will be quenched by the vitamin C stored in the skin. Studies also indicate the exposure to UVA and UVB radiation sharply reduces the level of vitamin E in the skin. Topical appliction of 5% vitamin E acetate cream over a period of 10 days increased the level of vitamin E (tocopherol) five fold, thus providing increased protection to the skin. Reseach has shown that taking 30mg of beta-carotene a day protects against the supression of the immune system by UVA rays. Other suggestions are to take daily doses of 3 grams or more of vitamin C, 88 IU of vitamin E and 200 micrograms of selenium (l-selenomethionine). Vitamin C and E also protect against cataract formation.

Research also supports that taking vitamin C and anti-oxidants internally can also have the benefit of blocking free radicals in the skin, whether taken in the vitamin C medium or just eating fruits and vegetables high in C, E and other anti-oxidants. Green tea is also another good source of anti-oxidants but has higher levels when used in the loose leaf form.

Waterproof or not, a sunscreen needs to be applied every two hours or its effect will diminish. Remember a teaspoon of product to cover the face is suggested to achieve full effect.

So finally my favorites are
- Anthelios by La Roche-Posay which contains Mexoryl, the most effective FDA approved organic filter designed to protect against short UVA rays (max absoption 344 NM) with high photostability. This means it will maintain a higher UVA protection longer and will not degrade as quickly as other UVA protectors when exposed to the sun.
- Obagi NuDerm Sun Block
- Sunforgettable SPF 30 Powder Sunscreen by Colorescience.

Serums and Masks

Each year we see the cosmetic industry come up with new ideas or recirculate old ideas with new ingredients. Two of the hottest re-runs are the ideas of masks and serums. Masks have been around for a long time but as of late they are making resurgence. The benefit of the mask is simple…it is a vehicle to allow increased penetration of whatever active ingredient is in it.

A simple example of this is the Cosmelan Depigmentation Mask. This mask is used on the face to lighten age spots and melasma, renew the skin and alleviate irregularities in the pigment of the skin. Mesoestetic Pharmaceutical laboratories are known worldwide for their leadership in depigmentation treatments. For the past 14 years Mesoestetic has specialized in research development and manufacturing of high quality professional cosmetic treatments. They guarantee quick and effective results for patients as well as for our medical offices…now that is a rare statement for any cosmeceutical companies.

Let’s have a quick review of the causes of dark spots or age spots and pigment changes. The human skin has its color due to melanin. The differing amount of this pigment determines the darkness or the lightness of the skin. The main function of melanin is to protect the skin from the suns damaging rays. The epidermal cells where melanin is produced are called melanocytes. Melanin is formed here through metabolic processes. With age as well as hormonal changes, these melanocytes may become irregular in their melanin production. The results are age spots and melasma. The mechanism of action of the Cosmelan Depigmentation Mask is based on the inhibition of tyrosinase, a fundamental enzyme in the formation of melanin. After 10 days of starting the treatment a notable improvement in hyperpigmentation is visible. In my opinion this is the BEST product out there for pigment change. I will personally consult with every consumer who purchases this mask.

Another new mask out by MesoEstetic is Radiance BX Anti-Aging Mask. This mask is endowed with anti-oxidant properties. These antioxidant neutralize free radicals which are known to break down our healthy collagen and DNA. The active ingredients include Coenzyme 10 and the most effective set of vitamins in the treatment of premature skin aging, retinol, vitamin C and vitamin E along with the antioxidant grape polyphenol. Other ingredients give it moisturizing emollient and reparative action such as hydrolyzed soybeans and musk rose oil. Soybeans have been found to be important in preventing glycation. Glycation is when excess sugar (usually from our diet) binds to our skin's collagen making it more brittle and stiff. Soy has been shown to trap excess sugar molecules, preventing this. Overall this mask causes significant and visible rejuvenation of the skin, helps remove imperfections and reduces the signs of photoaging or changes due to hormonal flux. You may obtain this as part of the Mesoestetic Radiance Anti-Aging Pack.

Other masks to receive mention are Jan Marini C-Esta Mask (a vitamin C antioxidant mask) and Mesoestetic Mask 1 and 2 (Mask 1 stimulates cellular activity and moisturizes, Mask 2 is a gentle exfoliant and healing stimulant mask that can be used after aggressive peels or exfoliating treatments), sold together.

Serums are the other hot idea that has reemerged. By far we feel Mesoestetic has the best in this area as well. Their anti-aging Mesoglow ampoules reduce lines and give firmness and luminosity to the skin. Mesoglow Ampoules contain mimosa tea, vitamin F, vitamin C, Collagen, Elastin and vegetal tensors.

A special mention goes to Hyalogy P-Essence Serum with nanosome technology and hyaluronic acid which combine to deliver intense hydration to the skin.

Serums can be used alone or in conjunction with a mask. Just make sure they are compatible.

Moisturizers and Hydrators - What's the difference?

Most of us find that as we age we require some type of moisturizer or a hydrator. Even those of you with oily skin will still benefit with a light moisturizer to maintain your skin at its optimum condition. Moisturizers work as a protective sealant to protect your skin against the harsh elements of the environment while keeping ones skin natural moisture in. Exposure to the outside elements, excessive use of degreasing products as well as decrease sebum production with age all make the skin seem dryer with age. Menopause also adds to the dryness of the skin.

So what is the difference between a moisturizer and a hydrator? The presence of an oil in the formulation defines a moisturizer as separate from a hydrator.

Moisturizers consist either of an oil in water formula or a water in oil formula. They may come as a crème, as a lotion or as a serum.

The oil in water emulsions are the lighter of the two and usually found in day lotions. The water in oil emulsions are heavier and often found in night treatments and creams.

The function of a moisturizer is to prevent loss of moisture in the skin.

A hydrator’s function is to add moisture back into the skin. These are best with patients with oily or normal skin. Remember it is possible and often likely that patients with oily skin are actually also dehydrated. Alcohol based cleansers, exfoliants, and other degreasing treatments can strip ones skin of the bodies natural water.

I believe every skin type benefits from some type of moisturizer or hydrator, the trick is finding the right one. By far the best hydrator available today is hyaluronic acid.

Sodium Hyaluronate, commonly known as Hyaluronic Acid, is the key water holding substance in human skin and plays a pivotal role in the appearance and texture of the skin. Clinical studies have demonstrated that aging skin has lower levels of Hyaluronic Acid than younger skin. During the aging process, the skin tissue becomes dehydrated resulting in dull, lackluster skin which shows fine lines and wrinkles. Keep in mind dryness alone doesn’t promote wrinkles and fine lines it just makes them more visible.

So we know we need to replace Hylauronic acid as we age to maintain optimal hydration however it isn’t that easy. Your skin is hydrophobic and lypophilic. This means your skin repels water and only allows oils to pass through the skins barrier. Skin care products containing this substance are often used in conjunction with vitamin C products to assist in effective penetration or combine the new nanosome technology now available to aid in penetration.

Hyalogy P-Essence beauty serum and Hyalis from the Neocutis line both contain the highest percentage of Hyaluronic acid (1%). P-Essence Beauty Serum, the essential step in the Hyalogy skin care program, contains hyaluronic acid molecules small enough to actually penetrate the epidermal intercellular spaces. This nanotechnology delivery replenishes moisture much deeper than conventional hyaluronic acid. La Roche Posay number one active ingredient in their Hydraphase line is Water! This entire line is based on their unique thermal spring water. Meso estetic offers a Mask1 and 2. Mask 1 is a truly moisturizing mask with it mechanism of action being in a protective silicone oil. Remember even with scar treatment silicone is the first line to healing because it keeps moisture in and allows your scar to heal in a hydrated environment. Also look for sunflower oil and a combination of antioxidants in many of the following lines: Mesoesthetic, Skinmedica. Some lines include growth factors (Neocutis, Skinmedica and Jan Marini) and still others contain antioxidants (Skinmedica, Neocutis, Prevage Mesoestetic). If you are recovering from a peel or use a heavy glycolic at home you may need a true moisturizer to aid in skin healing (MesoEstetic Hydra Vital K) at least for the first week or so. No moisturizer or hydrant should ever be irritating and hopefully you will find one from our picks that does double duty.

Brown Spots & Age Spots: lighten up!

Hyperpigmentation is a very common condition in which patches of skin become darker than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when there is an excess of melanin (the brown pigment in skin) and it forms deposits in the skin.

Spots may form from sun damage and larger areas such as in melasma and chloasma may be due to hormonal changes. Inflammation and trauma to the skin can also result in hyperpigmentation. These areas may fade slightly when sun exposure is minimized but they never go away completely.

As a matter of fact, hyperpigmentation is not a curable condition, just one we can learn to control. No matter what the treatment, sunscreens at all times are a must. The sunscreen used must also be a broad spectrum covering both UVB and UVA rays. Most prescription creams used to lighten the skin contain hydroquinone. A bleaching cream will lighten and fade dark patches by slowing the production of melanin.

Hydroquinone can only be used up to 2% in over the counter medication. Most medical lines contain 4% (such as Obagi Nu Derm Clear) unless they are specially compounded in which case they can go up to 12%.

To improve penetration many creams combine tretinoin with hydroquinone (such as Epiquin from Skin Medica's Hyperpigmentation Kit). This increases cell turnover so that the old darker cells slough off faster, speeding results. Many excellent hyperpigmentation or lightening creams combine hydroquinone with other natural ingredients that interfere with the melanin production cycle at other places than hydroquinone such as ViDerm Bleaching RX cream which also contains Licorice and Beri-Beri.

Others use acids such as glycolic or azelaic acid as found in
Cosmelan Depigmentation Mask and Cosmelan 2. These acids effectively exfoliate the skin, helping to lighten the post inflammatory pigmentation.

Whatever the treatment one must be patient with the treatment as one skin cycle or 28 days is required to see noticeable results.

Is your hair aging you?

Is your hair aging you? If you aren’t treating it the answer is yes. The truth is that anyone over the age of 30 willl eventually have finer and thinner hair than when they were younger. Genetics plays a role in determining what you started with but hair care and treatment can determine what you end up with.

50+% of women can show signs of female pattern baldness. This is a genetic and hormonal and this type of thinning can cause sparseness around the crown. Women don't lose their front hair line but they will experience a generalized sparseness. Hair loss is especially hard for women because it often represents their sexuality. Remember the old expression that the mane is considered a woman's crowning glory?

The most common treatments today are Minoxidil (to increase vascularity), testosterone blockers (spironolactone) and estrogen (birth control pill or patches). These should all slow the shedding. Other causes of hair loss are telogen effluvium (caused by a stressful event such as pregnancy, weight loss, or surgery) and Alopecia which is total hair loss in sections or completely (autoimmune).

So what can we do to prevent our hair from giving away our age? Hair is no longer alive but nutrition plays a big role in its strength and durability. So remember to eat with your hair’s proper nutrition in mind:

- Protein is very important and necessary for strong hair growth. It is also important to take MSM 3000mg twice a day and Biotin, up to 5000mg daily (as vitamin supplements). We carry two products that we feel are exceptional for your hair. Both treatments have been shown to be effective.

The first in Jan Marini's Age Intervention Hair Conditioner. This post-shampoo scalp treatment contains spironolactone to block the effects of testosterone on the hair root. It also contains vitamins, Japanese green tea, wheat protein and retinol. Retinol is known to increase stem cell production and allow easier transport of vitamins across the skin barrier. Use it after shampooing if you are using it just for maintenance. If you are using it to stop hair loss, then we suggest using it every day or at least every other day. Do use this product sparingly and apply it to the scalp. Massage it in after you apply it. Remember the hair on our head has a different growth cycle so if your hair stops falling out in 4 to 6 weeks this is considered a success.

The second product is DNC Spectral RS® which works by addressing multiple causes that lead to thinning hair such as perifollicular fibrosis and internal factors such as stress, hormonal disturbances, lack of vitamins and mineral salts, and the use of certain medications. Perifollicular fibrosis is a condition that accompanies all hair loss whereby the collagen around the hair root becomes rigid and tightens, pushing the root to the surface and causing premature hair loss. Other ingredients in DNC Spectral RS® help improve the nutrition, circulation, and metabolism of the follicle. Nanosome technology allow better penetration and effectiveness of the product.
Primary Ingredients: • Aminexil • Retinol • Nanosomes • Vitamin Complex • Herbal Extracts Shake before use.
Recommended use of this product is as follows:
- Apply 14 or more sprays directly in the area of hair loss/thinning hair, twice per day.
- Rub in the liquid evenly over the entire area. Do not rinse.
- DNC Spectral RS® should be applied whether your hair has been washed or not.

For men hair loss we suggest Spectral DNC. Spectral DNC® is the world's most effective topical hair loss treatment. Spectral DNC lotion contains highest quality research grade Minoxidil, Aminexil, Adenosine, and Procyanidin B-2 and C-2 encapsulated in DS Laboratories nanosomes. Nanosomes are organic micro-spheres that are approximately 200 times smaller than human cells and penetrate into the lowest levels of the skin and release the active ingredients gradually over a 15 hour period. In addition to these clinically proven compounds, Spectral DNC® contains a vitamin and mineral complex, herbal extracts, copper peptides, and retinol to help re-grow normally strong and healthy hair. These ingredients work synergistically to deliver maximum results.

7.01.2008

Grow your Lashes!

Here's the story behind Eyelash Stimulants/Conditioners: A popular glaucoma called Lumigan (made by Allergan) has long been known to have the side effect of causing hair growth. This little side effect has revolutionized how we think about eyelashes. Now extensions, false eyelashes and heavy mascaras are not necessary. Not when you can have the real thing in as little as three weeks. Eyelash products are now being specifically formulated for cosmetic purposes. These products contain a prostaglandin analog. In 2005 Jan Marini came out with the first eyelash conditioner, Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner. This product contained Bimatoprost which is a prostaglandin analog. Initially this ingredient was used in glaucoma patients to decrease intra ocular pressure. Jan Marini had to withdraw this product in January 2008 due to legal reasons but it was not over safety issues.

Since then other companies have come out with lash stimulants:

- Revitalash (Athena Cosmetic Corp) works well. Reports verify a patient can achieve up to 3mm in increase length of eyelashes in as little as six weeks.
- MD Lash Factor (Procyte) is the newest product on the market and has the clinical trials to support the company’s claims. Another plus with MD Lash Factor is that the ingredient has been slightly changed and there are no reported changes in intraocular pressure.

The growth cycle on eyelash is 30 days to 6 months, this is much shorter than the hair regrowth period so that is why we see the results so much faster. These products also work on the eyebrow hairs and you can actually sculpt the eyebrows with the product.

Keep your eyes out in the next year for one more addition to this growing marketplace. Allergan is planning to come out with its own eyelash conditioner called Lumilash. We will keep you posted! �

The oh-so-delicate eye area

One of the first places many people notices changes in their appearance is in the skin around the eyes. The skin around the eye area is delicate and thin so it is this area that shows the ravages of time first. As collagen production falls and elastic fibers weaken, the periocular skin no longer retains its form. Environmental pollutants, stress, photo damage, heredity and aging all contribute to this problem. Damage around the eye areas usually manifests itself as wrinkles, crow’s feet, dark circles or puffiness.

This delicate eye area deserves special attention. Fine lines, dark circles, "crepe" appearance are all problems that find their solution with our targeted selection of eye care products. This area has a few attributes that should be considered prior to deciding what eye cream is best for you.

The first is of course that the skin is thin in this area. Therefore moisturizing is extremely important. Products in this area should be applied gently with a patting technique and not rubbed in.

The second thing to keep in mind is because the skin is so thin, the underlying vascularity readily shows thru. This is one component of the dark rings patients often complain about. Another factor to consider is that this is the area that responds with fluid retention and puffiness depending on what is happening in your daily life. Not enough sleep?? This is where it will show. Too much alcohol? This is where you will be puffy. Therefore a good eye cream should contain something that hydrates, acts as an antioxidant, increases cell turnover, decreases vascularity and decreases puffiness. It should do all of this while at the same time it is non irritating and non inflammatory.

In order for an eye cream to be non irritating and non inflammatory it should NOT contain certain products. Check the label to make sure there is no alcohol or preservatives that may sensitize this delicate eye area. It should not have too strong of an acid to cause inflammation.
What your eye cream should contain:

- Antioxidants (idebenone, green tea, vitamin C, coffeeberry and others). All of these will act prophylactically to protect this delicate area from environmental and UV damage. A moisturizer, such as hyaluronic acid, is an absolute must. We like Hyalogy Eye Treatment pads, Jan Marini Age Intervention Eye Cream and Eye Concentrate Serum, Vivelif High Potency Serum, and La Roche Posay Hydraphase Eyes.

- A growth factor to increase cell turnover (Lumiere, Skinmedica TNS Illuminating Eye Cream).

- An agent that decreases vascularity as well as puffiness such as caffeine which is found in Lumiere buy Neocutis and Skin Medica’s illuminating Eye Cream. It should contain an antioxidant such as Vitamin C with a lighter percentage than what is used on your face (C-Esta Eye Serum by Jan Marini).
My picks are as follows:

For hydration by far the most effective are the Hyalogy Eye pads but these are for once or twice a week or before a big event. While beauty serums can be used in the gentle eye area, the pads are a perfect complement to this. These sheets refresh and rejuvenate while smoothing the fine lines around the eyes.
For everyday use try La Roche Posay Hydraphase Eyes, this product offers just the right amount of moisture to the eye area.
For actual improvement with skin tone and texture as well as all around eye care I love Neocutis Lumiere. This product contains 30% more of the growth factor than is in their face cream. It is also filled with antioxidants and caffeine so it is active, preventative and therapeutic. This product reduces dark circles, smooths fine lines and wrinkles, reduces puffiness and refreshes fragile skin.
I also love Skin Medica illuminating Eye Cream that combines the power of Nouri-cell MD with peptide technology to help reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness and brighten the skin around the eyes.
Finally Jan Marini has come out with a highly effective C-Esta Eye Repair Serum and Cream and Mesoestetic has Radiance Eyelift. Please check out all of our favorites and see which one bests suits your needs.

6.24.2008

Bruising in Today's world: speed up your recovery time!

If there is something we don’t like about your looks and we wish to change it, we can. The newest surgical procedures often have little or no downtime and the soft tissue fillers can be used to avoid or postpone surgery . Even though the new advances in the cosmetic field have significantly reduced the downtime postprocedure, bruising and swelling are still a problem. So what is available to speed your healing time or to prevent bruising altogether? What vitamins are truly going to put you in tip top shape before surgey and carry you through your post recovery period?

The oldest standby is Arnica Montana also known as Mountain Tobacco, Mountain Arnica, Leopards Ban and Sneezewort. Arnica is an herb which growns wild in the Swiss Alps and has been used as a part of European herbal medicine for over a thousand years for the reduction of bruising and swelling and to shorten the recovery period after physical trauma. The plant is ineffective in its raw form and must be prepared to get the benefits it offers. VitaMedica's Arnica Montana 30X is a homeopathic remedy. Organically grown Arnica Montana soft-grain, sub-lingual tablet 30X formula dissolves rapidly and is optimal for facial procedures. Available in 5-day blister pack or 250 count bottle (month supply).
Try the five day blister pack for pre and post injection or the longer two week course for after surgery. 


BENEFITS: Optimal for facial surgery or injectable (such as Botox or dermal fillers such as Restylane) procedures. Soft-grain, sublingual tablet that dissolves rapidly.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Begin taking Arnica Montana immediately following soft tissue injury or surgery and continue until the bruising and swelling subsides (7-14 days). Adults should take 3 tablets 3 times per day. For injections the five-day blister pack is all that is required.

The second supplement to consider is Bromelain. Bromelain comes from the pineapple plant. Mostly the stems are used in its manufacturing but some of the fruit is used as well. Bromelain is an anti-inflammatory formula containing proteolytic enzyme from the stems of pineapples. Proteolytic enzymes are capable of dissolving proteins. It is often used to relieve edema (swelling) after procedure. Many times the two are combined in one pill for maximum effect. Out of all of the products we have tested we like Vitamedica the best.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Begin taking Bromelain 3 days prior to surgery. Continue taking Bromelain after surgery until the inflammation and swelling have subsided (usually 7-10 days). As a dietary supplement, take two capsules three times a day on an empty stomach. Each individual is unique and nutritional requirements may vary.
CONTRAINDICATIONS: Bromelain with Quercetin is contraindicated in patients with a history of abnormal heart rhythms (arrhythmias); taking blood thinners like Coumadin; or who have allergies to pineapple. 
 Finally before your surgeries consider supplementing with Zinc, which is known to help with healing and Vitamin C, Vitamin A and Vitamin K.

Vitamedica Surgery Pack: This all-inclusive vitamin pre and post surgical pack includes a two supply of all the necessary pre-surgical vitamins as well as a two week supply of post-surgical vitamins. They make this easy for you by including a bottle of Arnica Montana and Bromelain. The VitaMedica Surgery Program is a pre and post-operative nutritional supplement system designed for patients undergoing a surgical procedure. The Surgery Program provides nutrients to support wound healing, enhance the immune system, minimize inflammation and reduce bruising. The Surgery Program supplements are formulated to support the body's natural healing process, and as a result, allows patients to be more proactive in the healing process. The objective of the Surgery Program is improved safety and optimal surgical outcome. Because these products are natural, they are generally milder, safer and less likely to cause negative reactions or side effects than prescription medications.

BENEFITS: Helps support the healing process; Improves surgical safety; High-quality ingredients and formulations; Ideal for aesthetic plastic or cosmetic surgery patients; Convenient and simple.
CONTENTS: AM & PM Clinical Support for Surgery (a specialty multi-nutrient formula), Bromelain with Quercetin, Arnica Montana 30X. The 4-week program kit provides instruction card and patient brochure along with healing guides. Don’t forget to get off of the list of medical and non-medical supplements (consult with your doctor first) at least two weeks before your procedure.